Helen Mark visits 50 square miles that were neither England nor Scotland. The Debatable Lands, between Carlisle and Gretna, were, for hundreds of years, home to untameable crime families that frightened powerful lords and kings. Helen also explores the landscape of the Border Reivers, from the extraordinary natural life of the Solway Firth salt marshes to the tangle of rivers and bogs that still give the region a distinctive flavour